Tour style is in the middle of a quiet shift. The fits are getting looser, the details are getting more personal, and a new kind of confidence is starting to show up on the course. From unbuttoned plackets to Justin Thomas calling his own shots as a free agent, and the return of needlepoint belts, this is what happens when tradition meets a little bit of swagger. Here are the three biggest style moves from Sawgrass.
Is the Unbuttoned Placket the New Vibe on Tour?
Not long ago, the PGA Tour uniform was locked in with a polo buttoned neatly to the collarbone. The look was clean, proper, and maybe a little predictable. Lately, though, the collar situation has taken a turn toward something more relaxed.
You can trace the shift back to Keith Mitchell, who started letting a little air in with the longer plackets on his Sid Mashburn polos. Since then, the vibe has spread. Tommy Fleetwood, Sam Burns, and Players Champion Cameron Young have all leaned into the slightly undone look. A couple of buttons open. Collar relaxed. Just enough nonchalance to make it feel modern.
Of course, there is a line. Two buttons are the sweet spot. The natural V-shape created with the collar gives off an air of confidence, however the exact formula depends on the shirt itself. Button spacing, placket length, and overall fit all play a role. But two buttons open generally land in the style pocket.
Three buttons, though, is another story. That look only works if you are chilling on the beach, drinking a mojito, and your name is James Bond.
Justin Thomas Dresses Himself
Justin Thomas delivered one of the more interesting style notes of the week before a single ball was struck at TPC Sawgrass.
At his pre-tournament press conference, the 2021 Players Champion confirmed what many had already noticed. He is officially an apparel free agent. More interesting was how he framed it. Thomas said he enjoys putting together his own fits and wants the freedom to wear what he wants. In other words, JT is just like the rest of us.
Now, that could also be the kind of thing athletes say while waiting for the right deal to land on the table. But taking him at his word, his current rotation tells a clear story. Thomas is leaning heavily on Holderness & Bourne for polos and belts, while still mixing in pieces from his Greyson days. House of Fleming belts are still in the rotation, as well.
He is always putting some mileage on those FootJoy Premiere Series Wilcox shoes after moving away from the brand’s Hyperflex model that he wore last year.
Free agency has never looked this comfortable.
Needlepoint Belts Are On Point
If you have been paying attention to the waistlines on Tour lately, you may have noticed a small but meaningful shift.
Needlepoint belts are having a moment.
The style traces back to American prep culture, with brands like Smathers & Branson helping bring them into the menswear conversation in the early 2000s. What started as a niche Ivy League accessory slowly spread into the broader style world. Golf, with its love for heritage and tradition, was always a natural landing spot.
What makes needlepoint belts work so well on the course is the personality factor. Leather belts are clean. Woven belts are functional. Needlepoint belts tell a story. They reference clubs, hobbies, mascots, and even the occasional pet. They add character to an otherwise simple outfit without feeling loud.
Austin Smotherman showed up at Sawgrass with one featuring the golden goat logo reserved for Players Club patrons. ‘Pro Shop Tommy’ sported a version stitched with the Seminole logo. It is a small detail, but that is the point.
If you want to work a needlepoint belt into your own rotation, the move is simple. Keep the rest of the fit neutral. Solid polo. Navy or khaki pants. Clean white shoes. Let the belt do the talking.
That is how you make it feel stylish instead of gimmicky. And right now, it is one of the easiest ways to add personality to a golf outfit without trying too hard.